Doing the Quoddy Loop
Good friends Pat and John Ridlon from downstate Boothbay Harbor were remarking last winter they'd never been in Downeast Maine. Place where bumper stickers allude to “Life Begins East of Ellsworth”. Posture to which AJ and I have heartily subscibed and spent a great deal of time enjoying over the past fifteen years. Idea of doing the Quoddy Loop: Lubec, Campobello Island, Deer Island, Black's Harbor, across to Grand Manan back to Black's Harbor, on down to St. Andrews, and with time, closing the loop in Eastport came immediately to mind. Wasn't long before we were plotting a trip to be executed sometime in September twixt summer's end and leaf season. As plans are wont to change, the week made a few detours until settling in place and by the monday of the third week, with the Tahoe saddled, luggage neatly stacked in the back and a brewing storm we set a course of due east from Ellsworth and plans for first two nights at Inn on the Wharf in Lubec.
Catching an intermission between wind and rain drops we took advantage of 2 for 1 Lobster rolls at a takeout diner, then rolled in to Lubec by midafternoon. (Felt bad for our lobster industry this summer; but we tried to do our part, and am just now beginning to get the taster buds wrapped around lobster again).
Sleeping arrangements settled we headed over the bridge and through customs for a ride out to Head Harbor lighthouse to see the surf and perhaps spot a whale with a side trip down the twisting road to Head Harbor itself and a look at the commercial fishing fleet berthed there. No whales sighted as in other visits, but plenty of surf.
Next morning, with rain pelting down again, we let the Ridlons off at FDR's summer home for a tour while AJ and I went across the road and out to Herring Cove for beach pebbles. Surf was crashing as tide neared high. FDR tour over we started a circumnav of our favorite island, (ex-Acadia/MDI). Coves, lighthouses, back roads, scenic points were all shown (some having to be imagined as fog blew through). We stopped at beautiful Owen House, oldest home on the island built by early settler and owner, Capt. William Owen, now a bed and breakfast, owned by artist/descendant Joyce Morrell where prints were purchased of Joyce's latest work. Later we enjoyed an excellent lunch at the golf course restaurant overlooking Herring Cove where Sue Keef in two years has managed to build a respectable clientle doing three meals a day. Later, as the sun began to break out at ragged intervals the girls accepted their God given responsibility to shop in Lubec while John and I explored the lighthouse and sideroads around West Quoddy Light. Interestingly enough, sightseeing that day turned out to be a doubly great experience as not often do we get to see the wilder side of coastal Downeast in a storm.
Back at the Inn and seated on the small deck overlooking the water, libations in hand, we were treated to one of those quintessential Quoddy Bay sunsets. Brilliant light over the picturesque islands dissolved slowly from blues to reds, yellows, pinks, and finally to deep blue-black, a light we've never experienced anywhere other than this area. Breathtaking. Conversation limited to exclamational.
Lubec is really a unique town these days. By day one can imagine rolling a bowling ball down Water street and never striking a person nor vehicle. Gals love it for liesurely shopping. Let evening come however, and it's an entirely different story. Parking becomes limited, people throng the streets and waterfront, restaurants pack to overflowing and often, standing room only at the bars is of the norm. You might run into an old college friend, a neighbor not having been seen for awhile, or make a new friend while waiting for a pint. I met my son-in-law's college roommate for the first time at Tavern on Water Street this summer where, incidentally, we enjoyed two delicious dinners this trip.
Early next morning with a brisk Northwest wind and crystal clear skies, we were sitting in the Tahoe, first in line, waiting for the Deer Island Ferry and the 45 minute ride across Head Harbor Passage. There'd been quite some discussion as to when we'd have to quit our excellent suite at Inn on the Wharf to catch this ferry, what with Campobello and the Eastern Provinces of Canada on Atlantic time, one hour ahead of us. The math was just overwhelming. Thanks be to John we made it.
Deer Island is definitely a place, like Campobello, where more than a few hours traverse is in order. Quiet, picturesque, unique, time warp, friendly, are just a few of the adjectives which come quickly to mind. Passing through the small communities of Statler's point, Richardson, Lord's Cove, Leonardville, and Hibernia on the way to L'Etete and the next ferry willed themselves as stops to be photographed. The stark beauty of the rockbound islands, wharves, fishing boats, weirs, complimented by blue ocean and white cloud-scudded sky kept delaying us as we just managed to drive directly onto the ferry as the last vehicle followed by more shutter action during the trip to Black's Harbor. To be continued.
For the Christmas season this year I'm going to make up a batch of Greek Phyllo Triangles found in “Fast and Flashy Hors D'Oeuvres” (Acropolis Books, 1988) to hide in the freezer until friends stop by.
* R E C I P E *
Half lb. Phyllo pastry sheets
Half lb. Ricotta cheese
Half lb. Jack cheese, grated
Half lb. Feta cheese, crumbled
1 egg
2 T. fresh dill weed, chopped or to taste
3 T. minced shallots
6 T. sesame seeds, toasted
1 cup butter, melted
White pepper to taste
1. Preheat oven to 425 deg.
2. Combine everything except the phyllo, sesame seeds and melted butter in a food processor fitted with metal blades. Taste and adjust the seasonings.
3. Cut Phyllo into long strips 2” wide. Brush 1 strip at a time with melted butter. Cover the remaining Phyllo with waxed paper and a slightly dampened towel until used.
4. Place 1 teaspoon of the filling at one end of each strip and fold over and over into a small triangle. While folding, make sure bottom edge is parallel with the alternate edge. Repeat until all the filling is used. Place triangles on a buttered cookie sheet.
5. Brush each triangle with melted butter, sprinkle with sesame seeds, and bake at 425 deg. For 10 to 15 mins, or until golden.
These can be prepared up to a day in advance refrigerated, or frozen up to 3 months. Seafood, or ham, artichoke hearts, cooked chicken, spinach, bok choy or prosciutto can be added to the cheese mixture and goat cheese can be substituted for the feta cheese. Fabulous and Simple!!
– Lee S. Wilbur
Fair Winds and Good Roads